Sewing Machine Needle Sizes report
After the Industrial Revolution in the middle of the 18th century, the large-scale production of the textile industry promoted the invention and development of the sewing machine. The critical accessory of any sewing machine is its sewing needle. Over time, sewing machine needle types (sizes) have been developed to ensure the best performance of each sewing machine. There may be many reasons for replacing sewing machine needles, such as new fabrics, new sewing machines, or increased machine speeds.
It would be best to choose different sewing needles for different fabrics, even on the same sewing machine. Practical experience reveals this rule: thin fabrics require thin and short sewing needles, and thick fabrics need long and wide ones.
Choosing the right sewing machine needle is essential in achieving a professional finish and not wasting time with broken sewing needles, holes, snags, and puckered seams. The following article lists a helpful needle size chart and tips for choosing the right size.
Sewing Machine Needle Parts
Sewing machine needles are the most changeable part of your sewing machine, and they influence how your machine forms stitches. Understanding the sewing machine needle features will help you choose the correct needle size for the fabric and thread you are using. All sewing machine needles have the same essential parts. The variation in needles is determined by the shape and the length of the parts.
Shank
The thick upper part of a sewing machine needle is called the shank. This part of the needle is inserted into the machine. Home sewing machine needles are composed of a flat side and a round side to assist in positioning the needle correctly.
Shaft
The shaft of a sewing machine needle is the area from the bottom of the shank to the point. The shaft contains the groove, scarf, eye, and point of the needle.
Groove
A groove is along the side of the needle leading to the eye and acts as a place for the thread to lay into the needle.
Scarf
The scarf is a groove out of one side of the needle. The scarf allows the bobbin case hook to intersect with the upper thread and form stitches.
Eye
The needle's eye carries the thread so the machine can keep forming stitches. Using a needle with an eye that is too small or too large can cause your thread to shred and break.
Point
The needle's point is the first contact with the fabric and is responsible for how the needle pierces the fabric. The most common types of needle points are sharp, ballpoint, and universal.
Sewing Machine Needle Sizing Guide
EU and US needles are referred to differently but most packets have both sizes listed. The EU sewing needle sizes go from 60 to 120, and in the US size system, they go from 8 to 19. The lower the number, the finer the needle for both. Knowing about the sizing information on the needle packages will help you purchase the correct size. Blunt needles can also affect the professional finish of your work, so do change the sewing needle regularly.
Sewing Machine Needle Chart
Now let's look at fabric associated with needle size:
| US Size | EU Size | Diameter (mm) | Diameter (inch) | FabricTypes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 8 | 60 | 0.60 mm | 0.024 in | Very fine silks, synthetics and cottons |
| 9 | 65 | 0.65 mm | 0.026 in | Very fine silks, synthetics and cottons |
| 10 | 70 | 0.70 mm | 0.028 in | Lightweight fabrics, net, chiffon, sheer nylon |
| 11 | 75 | 0.75 mm | 0.030 in | Medium weight fabrics - Voile, Chiffon, Organza |
| 12 | 80 | 0.80 mm | 0.031 in | Cotton lawn, taffeta, silks, tricots |
| 14 | 90 | 0.90 mm | 0.035 in | Medium heavyweight fabrics, poplin, chintz, velvets |
| 16 | 100 | 1.00 mm | 0.039 in | Heavy weight fabrics, cord, denim, gabardine, heavy suiting |
| 18 | 110 | 1.10 mm | 0.043 in | Upholstery fabrics, denim, leather |
| 19 | 120 | 1.20 mm | 0.047 in | Heavy Canvas and denims |
| 20 | 125 | 1.25 mm | 0.049 in | Extra heavy fabrics |
| 21 | 130 | 1.30 mm | 0.051 in | Extra heavy fabrics |
How to Choose the right Sewing Machine Needle Size
Selecting the correct needle for your project is as important as choosing the fabric, thread, and stabilizer. Remember that different types of fabric require different sizes and types of needles. Sewing needles sizes are classed into two characteristics:
Diameter
Sewing machine needle sizes vary by the needle's thickness. A thicker needle can sew through thicker fabrics. Thinner needles, of course, are most suited to fine fabrics such as silk and chiffon.
Purpose
The needle's purpose is to sew stretch fabrics, topstitching, or sew denim. Leather needs specialized needles to pierce. Different fabrics and purposes often require different shaped tips to penetrate the fabric fibers best.
